Colour Chart

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Introduction

When discussing about colours we always must have in mind:

1. That we cannot remember colours, so we have to describe them, we have to use synonyms or analogies (or nowadays colour-codes like RAL, Pantone, RGB, CMYK). The words chosen in the past are quite a really good hint: brick-red, jonquille-yellow, caput mortum, antwerpen-blue... Some libraries supply colour-guides or colour-atlas with numbered samples and comparatative lists of names used in the past. This is a rare but very good source, probably the second best after the own eye-whitness of real textiles or sample-books in museums.
2. In the second half of the 18th century some new colours appeared, following fashion-trends: bleu-mourant, pale green, pale pink, linzer-yellow - and of course they were chosen for distinguishing between the numerous regiments. Here fashion met practical military sense (this led to some of the most unusual but highly attractive designed colour-combinations).
3. Colouring varies because of the process, the result is the better the earlier in the process the colouring is done. Wool can be coloured as wool, as spinned reels and as woven textile, quality differs in respect to equality of results.
4. It was always a question of price, officers ordered much better textiles than privates because they could afford it. For the mass of soldiers in the 18th century much more cheaper quality textiles were brought. Regiment chief could save a lot of money! On the other hand, regiments tried to fit really good uniforms to their musicians, ensigns, NCOs....
5. Colours vary on different basic-materials: wool, linen, silk, cotton, and leather accept the colours in different ways. This results in differing appearance!
6. Unbleeched textiles (the natural tone) may change its colour after washing and exposure in sunlight. So there must have been differences in the appearance of a regiment with brand new uniforms in comparison to regiments wearing old uniforms in continuous service. This should be taken into account, especially with Austrian or French uniforms.
7. Some colour-groups in our culture are more common than others: we have only one word for the colours around orange but dozens of words describing all kinds of red and blue-tones. This may show how much cultural care was kept on this things in the past.
8. Contemporary dyeing processes did not fix colours very firmly and uniform colours tended to fade rather quickly.

Description

Here is an attempt to create a standardized color chart. Alternative names are noted in foreign languages, where possible. These will be organized by hues: reds, greens, yellows, blues, etc. Names are given in various languages, each language separated by a forward slash. Languages in order are English, then German, French, Spanish, etc.

A note on the color coordinates: these are for their appearance on cloth--usually wool--rather than on idealized web colors. The latter tend to be much too bright compared to real-life equivalents. This is notably the case with scarlet, though other brighter colors here also have this trend. It cannot be emphasized sufficiently that these are approximations. Some are based on actual illustrations--or even surviving uniforms--but these still fall under the issues noted above.

A notable exception are colors taken from the CIELab coordinates provided by Dominique Cardon in her publications: these were taken directly from wool swatches found preserved in the workbook of one Antoine Janot--an actual French dyer from the mid-18th century. Janot compiled his notes and close to the time-period in question, and thus provides an invaluable insight into how mid-18th century people saw colors.

Reds

Colour name	Sample	Red	Green	Blue	Sources	notes
madder red/Krapprot/Garance/Encarnandas or Garanza		141	30	24	Janot, 2021	Often called "brick red" in reference to British uniforms; a deep pink or blood-red color. If an army distinguishes between ponceau and "red", this would be the latter. Will fade to a dusty rose color, or brownish-crimson color. Original samples from the time consistently show this color.
Carmine or Crimson/Carmoisinrot/Carmoisi		103	33	47	Prussian infantry uniforms, 1806; Bavarian Uhlan uniform, 1910; Janot, 2016 and 2021
light crimson/Hellkarmoisinrot/Fleur de peche		181	88	85	Cardon, 2016; depiction of a Prussian soldier (IR 41), 1757; sample of Prussian wool swatch, 1806
flesh colored/Rosenrot/Couleur de chair		215	127	122	Prussian Infantry uniform, 1806; depiction of IR 40 (aka von Kreytzen Fusiliers), 1757	Roughly the color of a raw steak; can be slightly more purple or pink in hue.
Crimson/Bordeauxrot(?)		151	26	56	C.E.Franklin	This is the british meaning for crimson.
Amaranth		116	42	66	Wikipedia
Tile red/(Hell)Ziegelrot		227	54	17	Prussian uniform guide, 1806	Not to be confused with British "brick red"; a red-orange color. This is the approximate facing color Baron von Schönaich Cuirassiers
Poppy Red/Poncearot or Mohnrot/Ponceau or Ecarlate de feu		185	49	52	Janot, 2021	A duller and slightly deeper version of scarlet; apparently most common Prussian facing color. Often fades to an orange color (As shown on surviving uniform of Buddenbrok Cuirassiers). Same as fire red.
Dark Red		105	39	41	Austrian uniform guide, 1905
Lobster or Crab Red/Krebsrot		250	93	76	Austrian uniform guide, 1905
Rose/Rosa or Rosenrot/Rose		193	60	72	Janot, 2021	A very vivid shade of pink; not quite what the Prussians used for pink (see Flesh color).
pale red/Blassrot		254	103	102
Scarlet/Scharlachtrot		209	40	32	Based on Morier's depiction of various british officers and horse; Prussia uniform guide, 1806; depiction of IR 24 soldier, 1757	color varied signifigantly over time, and becomes slightly more orange over the course of the 18th century. "mock" or "half" scarlet simply refers to slightly duller and lower quality versions of this color (still brighter than Poppy red).
Scarlet/Ecarlate		175	40	49	Cardon, 2021	This was the color simply labelled "scarlet" in Janot's workbook.

Yellows and Oranges

Colour name	Sample	Red	Green	Blue	Sources	notes
Light Orange/Aurore		255	203	96	Pourpre.com
Bright yellow		249	225	10	http://44thregiment.itgo.com/
Orange		244	104	11
Ochre (yellow)		234	162	33	Wikipedia
Jonquil or Naples Yellow		250	218	94	Wikipedia
light Yellow/ Hellgelb		252	234	93	Prussian infantry uniforms, 1806	possibly the same as pale yellow
Lemon Yellow		250	236	23	RAL, sample of German uniform, 1806 Prussian uniforms	Exact color of a fresh lemon
Pale yellow		251	244	166	-
Yellow		250	200	39	British uniforms
philamot yellow		236	191	30	C.E.Franklin	The painting of the 13th by Morier depicts the unit prior to switching to this color; prior to then, the unit had deep yellow facings.
Deep yellow/Kaisergelb		244	174	29	Karsten, 1759, Hanoverian uniforms	Kaisergelb in English literature can also be translated as Gamboge; comparison between the "golden yellow" of Hanoverian uniforms with British uniforms matches best those regimetns with deep yellow. Later iterations are brighter (See Austrian uniform guide, 1905), but these postdate the period.
Saffron Yellow		244	196	48	Wikipedia	possible the same, or similar to deep yellow
Feuille Morte		153	81	43	pourpre.com	-
Sulfur yellow/Scwefelgelb		235	232	103	Prussian Infatnry units, 1806; Austrian uniform guide, 1905	a greenish yellow color.

Greens

Colour name	Sample	Red	Green	Blue	Sources	notes
Green		34	146	69	C.E.Franklin
Apple green/Apfelgrün		129	143	66	Hanoverian Horse Regiment v. Dachenhausen, Cardon, 2021	Color of an unripened (or green) apple)
Celadon green/Apfelgrün		130	144	113	Cardon, 2016; Cardon, 2021	Color of jade.
Bottle Green/Flaschegrün		27	77	62	http://www.tx4.us/nbs/nbs-b.htm
Full Green		43	74	34	Morier's painting of a grenadier of the 11th regiment, 1750
Pale green (British)		45	113	102	C.E.Franklin
Deep green		0	84	61	Triangulated based on green and very deep green	C.E.Frankling gives a different shade; however, this appears too light and pale to be correct. Admittedly this is a matter of judgement.
Very deep green		0	84	61	C.E.Franklin
Grass Green/Graßgrün		69	132	62	C.E.Franklin
Gosling Green		94	157	68	painting of a Grenadier of the 5th regiment of foot, 1750; C.E. Franklin	initially called "Gooseturd Green"
Russian green?		0	71	31	Joachim Schultz
Sage green		134	158	98	Wiktionary
Sea Green/Meergrün		3	97	103	C.E.Franklin, referenced with depiction of grenadier of 2nd Regiment of foot (Morier, 1751)
Willow Green		74	80	70	painting of a Grenadier of the 24th regiment of foot, 1751
Yellowish Green/Olive		70	73	45	Painting of a Grenadier of the 19th regiment by, 1751; Cardon, 2016. These two sources independently show a similar color, though Janot's handbook illustrates a different color under the French name for "yellowish green".
Poppinjay Green/Papageigrün/Vert perroquet		166	194	57	Janot, 2021	Also called Pappelgrün (poplar green) in German sources; a bright, yellow-green color. This shade was taken directly from Antoine Janot's notebook. May be the same as Gosling Green, but if so, the British version of Poppinjay Green was closer to this: #82731C (taken from images of 54th regiment reenactors).
Dark Green/		91	179	93	depiction of Hanoverian uniform, 1759; C.E.Franklin
Steel Green/Stahlgrün		75	99	75	Austrian uniform guide, 1905	deep grey-green color.

Blues

Colour name	Sample	Red	Green	Blue	Sources	notes
Dark blue (Indigo)/dunkelblau/ aile de corbeau		37	46	66	Cardon, 2021	French name taken directly from Antoine Janot's workbook name. Facing color of Royal Regiments in British service.
Turkish blue/Turkischblau/ Bleu Turquin		36	54	76	Cardon, 2021; Album di Taccoli, c. 1760	Color and its name taken directly from Janot's workbook; close match to Taccoli's depiction.
Royal blue/Franzblau/ Bleu de Roi/		40	59	82	Cardon, 2021; Grenadiers de France depiction, 1757; Broglie's painting; Project SYW page on Generals' uniforms	Color and name taken directly from Janot's workbook. Further investigation of Delacre Bilderschrift and Albertina handschrift suggest Franzblau and Bleu de Roi are the same or similar colors.
Medium blue or celestial blue/Ganzblau oder Mittleblau/ Bleu celeste		41	67	91	Cardon, 2021; Sealand Regiment (Denmark), 1760; Hanoverian infantry, 1759; Ignaz Schiffermüller, 1771	Color name taken directly from Janot's workbook.
Azure blue/Himmelblau/ Bleu d'Azure		50	82	103	Wikipedia	widely seen as the color of Prussian Dragoon uniforms, and termed cobalt blue; however, depictions of Dragoons from 1759 suggests they had sky blue coats; the cobalt blue coats are likely postwar.
Sky blue/Himmelblau/ Bleu de ciel		62	96	113	Cardon, 2016; Cardon, 2021; original pair of Civil War pants	Correct color of Prussian Dragoon coats in this era.
baby blue/??/ Bleu mignon		102	129	139	Cardon, 2016; Cardon, 2021. Name taken directly from Antoine Janot's book.
whitish blue/??/ Bleu deblanche		118	142	141	Cardon, 2016; Cardon, 2021. Name and color taken directly from Antoine Janot's book.
Prussian/Saxon blue/Bleu de Prusse		154	172	175	Cardon, 2016	This was the 18th century understanding of the term "Prussian" Blue. Extremely unstable as a color, as it first fades to a blue-green, then yellow-green.
Cornflower or Hungarian blue/Ungarischblau		106	155	211	-	Commonly assumed to be color of Bavarian coats after the war; true color so-called "Savoy blue"--a shade similar to either Azure or celestial blue.
Medium Blue (Swedish)		35	69	202	Sample of the Swedish lifeguard uniform
Pale blue(British)/NA/NA		76	95	137	C.E. Franklin
Bleumorant		22	116	146	Depiction of Hanoverian von Ahlenfeldt Regiment	Ignaz Schiffermüller describes this color as a medium desaturated blue, as depicted here.
Steel blue/Hellblau(?)		70	130	180	Wikipedia; depiction of Hanoverian Artillery, 1759	Possible color of Hanoverian artillery coats; might have also been Hechtgrau.
Lavender blue		108	119	181	-	Polish guard facing color; similar to pale blue, and may even be the same.

purple/violet

Colour name	Sample	Red	Green	Blue	Sources	notes
Pompadeur purple		84	48	60	sample of cuff of a British officer's uniform	Troupes du Roi, Infanterie française et étrangère, année, illustrates the French Regiment Belzunce with facings of this color.
Pompadeur Rose		163	29	81
Violet		55	51	72	Cardon, 2016	from coloremetric analysis provided in source.

Drabs

Colour name	Sample	Red	Green	Blue	Sources	notes
Yellowish-buff		252	248	201	-	Often translated from German to "yellow-Straw" or "straw-yellow"
Pale brown		152	118	84	Wikipedia
Pale buff/Blaßpaille		241	216	153	Paintings of several Grenadier regiments, Morier 1751; Prussian uniform depiction from 1806	Often translated from German to "pale straw"; often depicted as a near-white color, or simply left unpainted. Pale straw may be slightly more yellow, though Morier himself depicts a yellowish color. This color was tested and found appropriate.
Dark Brown		101	67	33	Wikipedia
Buff/Paille/ventre de biche		253	225	178	Author's personal buff crossbelt	the German term literally means "straw", but correspends to English Buff; the color may have been more yellowish than in Britain, though Morier also depicts this color as being yellowish. It and other shades of buff vary considerably. Antoine Janot's notebook illustrate's a similar color.
Fawn		149	128	112	http://www.tx4.us/nbsnotes.htm	Often assumed to be shade of Austrian Artillerists coat.
Chamois		223	199	121	Prussian infantry uniforms, 1806	A shade of buff.

Greyscale

Colour name	Sample	Red	Green	Blue	Sources	notes
Slate Grey		47	79	79	Wikipedia	deep, cyan-grey color.
Pike Grey/Hechtgrau		141	169	197	Austrian Uniform guide, 1905	color of Austrian Jaeger uniform. Can also be considered a shade of blue.
Ash Grey/Aschgrau		182	196	187	Wikipedia	A bright, slightly green shade of grey; color of fully-burned wood ash.
Dark Grey		52	52	51
iron Grey		67	75	77	-	Deep, slightly bluish grey.
light Grey		173	165	162
Medium Grey		101	193	90
Black		33	30	30	-	Pure black as generally understood was very rare prior to industrial dyes.
White (natural)		235	231	219	-	Bleached white wool was expensive, and reserved for the well-off.
Pearl Grey		208	208	201	-	general color of wool; also considered grey-white.

Notes

1. Philemot yellow and Feuille Morte may in fact be one in the same color, or have similar descriptive meanings (i.e. describing the color od dead leaves). If so, the different interpretations of this color may be related to the uneven dying of the period, a difference in shade between continental European and British definitions.
2. Some confusion exists regarding the nature of Bottle, Rifle, and Deep green: They may be one in the same, or three similar shades of green.
3. Strangely, Contemporary depictions of regiments faced in "grass green" (e.g., 36th regiment of foot), reveal color much darker than expected for the term. This is supported by the 1905 Austrian Uniform guide, which also defines the color as a shade of darker green.
4. according to the research of Kochan and Phillips, Popinjay Green and Gosling Green may have been referring to the same color.
5. Regarding "straw"; period depictions of units described as wearing straw--Notably those of Hanoverian units--often show a color similar to the buff leather equipment they may wear.

References

Austrian Uniform guide, http://www.mlorenz.at/Bewaffnete_Macht/Uniformen.htm

C.E. Franklin, 2012, British Army Uniforms from 1751 to 1783, Pen & Sword Books Ltd.

Cardon, Dominique, 2016, The Dyer's handbook: Memoirs of an 18th century master colourist, Oxbow books.

Cardon, Dominique and Bremaud, Iris, 2021, Workbook, Antoine Janot's colors, CNRS Editions.

David Morier, 1751, Paintings of Various soldiers for the Duke of Cumberland, http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/search?search=morier

Kochan and Phillips, 2013, http://www.historicaltextiles.com/

Prussian Infantry uniforms of 1806, http://www.napoleon-series.org/military/organization/Prussia/infantry/Schema/c_Schema1.html

Acknowledgments

Ibrahim90 for the initial version of this article and Joachim Schulz for the initial version of the introduction.